I’ve just had the carburettors on my PB rebuilt by Ed Biddle of EB Engineering. Ed operates from 246 Wells Road, Malvern Wells, MALVERN Worcestershire WR14 4HD. Telephone 01684 577564. Ed has rebuilt carbs for several T-Type owners, including Brian Rainbow (overhaul of a pair of brass bodied TA carbs).
Ed also provides a complete refurbishment service for T-Type windscreen assemblies. A useful chap to know and located in a very nice part of the UK in ‘Morgan country’.
The Editor’s rebuilt carbs by Ed Biddle. They are actually from a C-Type, so are 1 1/8 inch compared with the standard 1 inch.
Having fitted the rebuilt carbs and started the engine, the float bowl on the first carb overflowed. I had fitted a new Petroflex pipe from pump to carb and assumed that there might have been some debris in the new pipe as there were some fine bits of black debris in the bottom of the bowl. So, I took everything apart and started again, only to have the same thing happen upon re-assembly. A little fed up by now, I fitted my old Petroflex pipe and everything was fine. The new Petroflex pipe was returned to the supplier and full credit given.
Having had more of my fair share of problems with these Petroflex pipes I asked a friend to make up some copper tubing to fit between pump and carb and here is the result.
The Low Fuel Light
“The Low Fuel lamp is held into the dash by a collar and spring arrangement that fits from behind the dash. The collar locks into position by rotating it after passing over spigots that are pressed out of the body sides. There are two spigots diametrically opposite each other and two cut-outs in the collar to allow the collar to pass over them. There are actually two sets of spigots to accommodate dashboards of different thicknesses.
To get at the lens you would first need to remove the bulb holder which simply pushes into the back of the body (Just pull it out of the body – don’t twist it as there is a means of preventing it rotating). Then remove the collar by rotating it to align the cut-outs with the spigots in the body and then pulling the collar and the spring off. The lamp body will then be free to pull out from the front of the dash. Once out of the dash you will see that the bezel is held in place by two tongues that are bent over to hold it in place. Carefully straighten the tongues to release the bezel, lens and ‘Fuel’ symbol.
Sounds complicated, but it isn’t really. In fact it’s a pretty horrible arrangement. The collar is a tight fit on the body making it difficult to remove, especially when standing on your head in the foot well of the car.”
Ed’s note: The above dis-assembly instructions were kindly provided by Peter Cole in response to a request by a TC owner who wanted to replace the broken lens on his fuel light.
In a follow up e-mail Peter provided some more useful information as follows:
“The lens of my original Fuel Lamp is missing, so I have no idea what it looked like, but the reconditioned original sold to me (see contact details for the supplier at the end of these paragraphs) has a clear plastic ‘lens’ which is simply a disc of green Perspex material. Behind that is a thin brass disc out of which has been etched the word ‘FUEL’, so only the letters transmit light from the bulb. I would guess originally the lens was back printed with an opaque paint to the same effect.
A word of warning: the tongues of the bezel, both on my original and on the reconditioned one, are extremely fragile. They snap off really easily so you may have to resort to using adhesive to hold it in place after replacing the lens.”
(Reconditioned original provided by Digby Elliot. He deals in second hand T-Type parts and some repro items. He is also a useful contact as he restores gearboxes, handbrakes, windscreens and other parts. He can be contacted on 07836 754034).
Replacement clocks MG TD – second generation
In Issue 23 (April 2014) Declan Burns told us that he had made a small batch of replacement clocks for the dish faced speedo on the TD. At the time he was having difficulty with sourcing suitable ladies watches which were used for the replacements. In a recent e-mail he advised that he thinks he has now solved the supply problem – over to Declan…
“I have just received a sample clock from what I hope to be a reliable UK source. I have ordered some more as I am really very pleased with them. As opposed to the first batch, these are actually insertion clocks with a Japanese movement as used by many major watch manufacturers and not ladies watches.
A reliable movement is essential as you don’t want to have to correct the time on a regular basis – although the watches I was using were “Citron” and were very accurate. The new ones are slightly dearer but only by a few Euros but this extra is offset by coming with a spare battery. They will be available with Arabic or Roman numerals.
You wrote in the last issue of the magazine that some people were having difficulty with my email address. That’s my fault for using declan underscore burns at web dot de. When sent as a link and underlined it is difficult to see the underscore. That’s the reason.
I have attached some photos of the insertion clock showing details and what they look like when test fitted on my car. I test fit them before I send them out. I think they don’t look out of place. I am expecting a delivery today and have some housings already made up.
The pin is just to make the installation easier when fiddling under the dash and can be removed if required as it is only pushed in.”
Photo 1 – TD replacement clocks 2nd generation.
Photo 2 – TD replacement clocks 2nd generation.
Photo 3 – TD replacement clocks 2nd generation.
Photo 4 – TD replacement clocks 2nd generation.
Repair of Clocks
The services of David Ward were mentioned in Issue 24 (June 2014). David’s offer was as follows: “If any of your members are interested I would be willing to see if I can repair their clocks. A very small fee would cover my expenses”. David can be contacted by e-mail at: warddavidc(at)virginmedia.com Please substitute @ for (at).
Since the last issue he has received a couple of clocks for repair. The first one was relatively straightforward but on the second the original contact pin was worn through by 90%. This has been replaced but the clock will only run reliably at 15 Volts at the moment. Further tweaking is required.
Rear Axle stamping?
Rolf Schmidt is curious to identify this stamping on his TC rear axle. Anyone know?
Knight Engine Services
Mention was made of Knight Engine Services of New Factory Unit, Furnace Lane, Nether Heyford, Northants, NN7 3LB, tel. 01327-340900 in an earlier Issue of TTT 2. Members of the Kilsby MG Club visited the premises for a guided tour and were suitably impressed, so much so that the proprietor, Dave Knight, picked up some useful work after the visit.
Dave is currently working on a TB (XPAG) engine and I hope to feature some of the work he has done on this engine in a future Issue.
Hagerty Classic Car Insurance
I continue to receive reports of useful savings in insurance costs by using our arrangement with Hagerty. To qualify for this offer, please call Hagerty on 0844 824 1130 and quote the following promotional code: CCTTT. I was able to test their breakdown/recovery service recently (not that I set out to do so!) and was well satisfied with the response time and recovery arrangements.
XPAG REAR MAIN SEAL
John Lambie sent me the following pictures on setting up the rear crescent plate for minimum oil loss, using a dummy crankshaft piece, made by John Bowles of the MG TC Owners Club in Perth, http://www.mgtcownersclub.com John is coming to the UK in September 2015 along with 17 other Australian crews for the MGA Register’s Lands End to John o’ Groats Run.
The crescent is set for the correct clearance as necessary by dressing the ends using 800 wet/dry paper on plate glass This method has been used successfully to produce dry engines, without resorting to after market seal kit solutions.
Showing the use of a 0.003 ‘feeler gauge’ cut from a Carlton Mid-Strength beer can.
More polyurethane parts
I still have a supply of polyurethane bushes for the suspension on TC (front and rear) and TD/TF (rear) models. There has been a small price increase and the bushes now cost £3 each, except for the bushes which fit the large shackle pin (lower) at the rear of the TC, which cost £4. These bushes are sold as a service to members as is apparent when compared to the price charged by one commercial supplier (£8.95 and £11.86 respectively).
Additionally the bushes for the spring ‘eyes’ on the TC models do not have to be cut down as they are the correct length at 0.625 inches. They are a separate part from the 0.75 inches bushes which fit the ‘eyes’ of the TD/TF rear springs and the chassis ‘tube’ at the front (lower shackle pin) on the TC.
I have recently sourced some polyurethane spring ‘saddles’ and spring clip pads for the TD/TF models. These cost £5 each and £3 each respectively and can be seen in the pics below.
I also have a few spring ‘saddles’ in dark blue polyurethane which are suitable for the MGB but whilst slightly shorter in length will fit the TD/TF. These cost £3 each plus postage and four (4) are required. I can be reached via the website contact form or e-mail direct to jj(at)octagon.fsbusiness.co.uk – please substitute @ for (at). Telephone 0117 986 4224. Postal address: 85 Bath Road, Keynsham BRISTOL BS31 1SR, UK.
Finally, I’m not afraid to admit that compiling this Issue has been a bit of a struggle this time. Much effort has had to be expended in putting my J2 back together after it had been painted by Adrian Moore at ‘The Finishing Touch’ in Winscombe, Somerset. The result is stunning and I’m so very pleased. A car which I’ve owned for 49 years and which sometimes I thought I would never finish is now beginning to come together nicely.