MG T-Type Brake Maintenance

Fault Finding


(Requires Pumping)

(a)   Brake Shoes require adjusting or re-lining if adjustment is already at a maximum

(b)   Master Cylinder push rod requires adjusting. (Excessive pushrod clearance)

(c)   Master Cylinder requires replenishing

(d)   Leakage past main cup in Master Cylinder


(a) Linings not “bedded-in”

(b) Linings greasy

(c) Linings incorrect type


(a) Leakage past main cup in Master Cylinder

(b) Master Cylinder secondary cup worn (Air bubbles rise in supply tank)

(c) Leak at one or more points in system

(d) Brakes not properly bled


(a) Linings not “bedded-in”

(b) Linings greasy

(c) Linings incorrect type


(a) Shoes over adjusted

(b) Shoe pull-off springs weak or broken

(c) Pedal spring weak or broken

(d) Pedal to push rod adjustment incorrect

(e) Handbrake mechanism seized

(f) Wheel cylinder piston seized

(g) Supply tank overfilled or vent hole in filler cap blocked

(h) Master Cylinder by-pass port blocked

(i) Handbrake cables over adjusted


(a) Shoes over adjusted

(b) Handbrake over adjusted

(c) Pedal to pushrod adjustment incorrect

(d) Master Cylinder and/or wheel cylinder cups swollen, due to contamination with mineral oil or spurious fluid


(a) Greasy linings

(b) Distorted drums

(c) Front spring broken or loose at anchorage

(d) Tyres unevenly inflated

(e) Brake backplate loose on axle

(f) Worn steering connections

(g) Worn spring shackles

(h) Different grades of linings fitted

8 thoughts on “MG T-Type Brake Maintenance

  1. Clive Sherriff says:

    Re TABC Brake hose lengths, the rear hose was actualy about 1 1/2 inch shorter than the 2 front hoses. If you use a front hoselength at the rear there is every likleyhood that it will touch the frame or bodywork and wear through unless you put quite a big twist into it to take up the extra length.

  2. Bill Hoffer says:

    Hello, I have been advised by White Post to flush my brake system of its unknown glycol type brake fluid and replace it with new fluid. It looks like you would recommend type 4 glycol for a non-silicone system. My question is, how exactly do you go about flushing out a system? Thanks, Bill

    PS. What a great job you all have done on this site, and what a valuable resource it will be for me!

    • Brian Rainbow says:

      as you have already been using Glycol based brake fluid, I would be inclined to just drain the old fluid out from furthest bleed nipple (Left rear, then refill master cylinder with fresh new DOT 4 fluid and bleed the entire system. Make sure that when you bleed each wheel cylinder let plenty of fluid flow out until fresh clear bubble free fluid is visible in the bleed tube.

      That is what most garages do when replacing brake fluid every 3 years or when manufacturers recommend it to be changed. Some garages have specialist vacuum removal equipment, some use pressurised systems, but us home mechanics can use the age old method of manual bleeding!

      Best wishes, Brian

  3. Terry Andrews says:

    Hi Bill (& John),

    Can you or someone in the near future produce an in depth article on how to convert TC front brakes to twin leading shoe operation as per TD/TF. Regards…. Terry Andrews

  4. Peter Roberts says:

    I recommend SpeedBleeders to simplify the tri-annual bleeding routine. The devices replace the OEM bleeders and contain a check-ball that prevents line suction after the pedal is pressed down and released. Thus, a one-man bleed is easy and simple with the only caution to keep the reservoir topped up. Find them at

  5. Richard Axford says:

    Brakes work fine, if the wheels can be jacked up and move side ways look for old rear splines in the rear drums all worn out, ruins the axel splines, so wife hates to use it until it’s fixed properly, but can’t spring for the parts. I know (personal problem right) well I normally feel like making repairs myself and do. last time the axel shaft broke left me sitting in a flat bed getting taken home. U.S.A. White Lake Michigan went to fall color tour and had to get battery charged up voltage regulator points needed sanding works good now. usually we both ride and the grinding sound of the floor panel hitting the drive shaft became annoying I got under and placed a 1/2 inch shim between cross member & the floor has’nt made a peep since.

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