Category Archives: Issue 37 (August 2016)

The Editor

Welcome to Issue 37, August 2016. It only seems like yesterday but Issue 1, August 2010, was published six years ago.

Of primary interest to the entrants for the TTT 2 Tour of the Forest of Dean and Wye Valley are the following few paragraphs.

First, the front cover of the Roadbook, which is virtually finished and will be sent to the Printers shortly.

Acknowledgement for the photograph of the Horseshoe bend of the river Wye, taken from high up on Yat Rock, must go to the late Alan Wood. Alan used to run the website which was a tremendous source of news for the local population and a wonderful advert for the attractions of this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

We have 39 T-Types entered for the Tour. My next task, as soon as I have put this editorial to bed, is the type out the list of ‘runners and riders’ and e-mail it out to the Tour entrants, along with some advance information of Tour arrangements.

The Saturday and Sunday Tours are quite different in character. Much of Saturday morning’s route, after we have left Monmouth, is on single track roads taking us up the Gospel Pass to Hay-on-Wye and returning to Coleford down the Golden Valley

Sunday’s route is a rather more leisurely affair with a short drive, crossing the Wye to Tintern Abbey, and then back over the Wye through some Forest of Dean single track roads to the Dean Heritage Centre for lunch. We are likely to be a major attraction here because the Centre is holding a Childhood Memories Festival over the weekend of our visit.

From the Dean Heritage Centre, we travel on Forest roads to Yat Rock, where there will be the opportunity to go up to the viewing point to take in the scenery (including, if you are very lucky, the sight of a Peregrine Falcon).

The front cover is courtesy of Chris Couper. Chris runs The Original MGTD Midget website and there is also the companion site The Original TF Midget at Acknowledgement for the photo must go to

Our application for incorporation is still in play. Unfortunately, the timing of the application got caught up with a print change of Form INO1 (Application to register a company). Having filled out the relevant pages of the previous print of the form, which ran to 19 pages, I now have to deal with the revised print, which runs to 35 pages. I thought that there were moves to simplify ‘red tape’!

Notwithstanding this I want to stress that our impending change in status to a Company Limited by Guarantee will not result in any charges for services provided via the website. Naturally, there will be charges for printed copies of TTT 2 and our annual Tour, but these will be self-funding.

The MG Octagon Car Club has just announced that their ‘Founder’s Weekend’ will be held from 19th to 21st May next year at the Petwood Hotel, Woodhall Spa, Lincolnshire. Further details will be in the September Octagon Bulletin and in the next issue of TTT2.

The 2017 Totally T-Type 2 Tour will be held from 18th to 20th August and is based on the Chichester Park Hotel, Chichester, West Sussex. Full details were given in the June issue, but they will be repeated in the October issue when the majority of bookings are made.

We are currently giving consideration to a venue for the 2018 TTT 2 Tour – watch this space!

I have been contacted by Tomasso Furlan, a postgraduate student at Warwick University. He is currently working on a dissertation, in collaboration with Tata Consultancy Services, about the introduction of the 3-D Printing technology in the spares markets for Classic vehicles. Tomasso has produced a survey form (customer requirements enquiry) and I promised him that I would give it some publicity. You can find it at

Lost and Found

TA owner Simon Parker recently found photographs of his late uncle’s TA and TC when clearing out his house. The TA (TA2233) with registration mark APN 898 comes up with a DVLA search enquiry, but is not in use, so is probably laid up. Simon has lots of history for this car, if only we can make contact with the current owner. The photo below shows the car somewhere in the Alps.

There is not so encouraging news about the TC pictured below.

Registration mark NPH 750 is TC10189. The car has trials history from competing in Cornwall (Simon’s uncle, Stuart Radbourne is thought to have hailed from Penzance) and also race and rally history, including participating in the 1951 RAC Rally for which Simon has entry papers. Unfortunately the TC does not come up with a DVLA search.

There are lots of photos of both cars, which is keeping Simon busy on the scanner. One of these is thought to have been taken at Goodwood which shows the headlights turned round and Stuart’s cap, also on the wrong way round!

Simon is at ysfparker(at) {please substitute @ for (at)}. He would also be interested to hear from anybody who might know some history of his TA, registration mark CON 971. A previous appeal for news of history of this car was publicised in an earlier issue of TTT 2 but yielded no fruit.

The following was recently received from new TTT 2 subscriber & member, Steve Mansbridge:

“I am really new to the MG TD scene, having only recently acquired my 1952 MG TD chassis no. 14678 with matching engine number XPAG/TD2/ 15022.

The car rolled off the production line at Abingdon, on the 27th March 1952. An export model, the car went to the State of New Jersey, U.S.A. Unfortunately, I cannot trace the original sale as yet, but I do have the original sales certificate, relating to the second hand sale of the vehicle by The Merit Credit Company of Hanover Street, New Jersey in 1954.

The second owner kept the car and the windscreen has a licence sticker for 1965, which, I understand is when it was last used.

TD14678 was re-imported into the UK, in 2014, and was kept in a sea container in the garden of a lovely cottage near Crewe, Cheshire, until I spotted it for sale.

The purchase, being eventually concluded, I travelled from my home in North West Hampshire, to Crewe, in company with my son, using a hired car transporter. An uneventful journey to say the least. I told the seller originally, that I would be there at about 11 am, we were in fact ten minutes early and, in time for the coffee which was offered and accepted gratefully.

A short check around the car, revealed some corrosion of the left hand front and rear quarter panels, but little else, apart from a spattering of what I can only describe of wax oil on all of the side screens. One other revelation was the presence of a large number of empty acorn husks, in the passenger and luggage compartments, my suspicions were to be confirmed much later.

After loading and securing the car onto the transporter, we departed for the journey home. Apart from a short stop to check the security of the tarpaulin tie down, the trip was again uneventful.

With wife and grandson Spencer awaiting our arrival, we off loaded the MG straight into the garage, maybe that should be squeezed, we are no different to most people, who use the garage as a storage unit for everything.

The following day began the thorough examination of the car, with really surprising results. As it is my intention to carry out a full restoration, dismantling is a forgone conclusion. As at first thought, the left hand front and rear quarter panels were beyond recovery, removal of these panels was not an easy task, as the securing bolts and screws were as rusty as I am; many snapped, others had to be cut off. The removal uncovered a main side rail of the ash frame to be full of DRY rot, the rear door pillar upright was a fatality of WET rot. The side screen box was rusted through, as were the associated plywood panels, rotted through. The seat back, as had the side screen box. had been used as accommodation for the squirrels responsible for the acorn husks, Plywood floor panels will require replacing, as will all of the interior trim and carpets, the reason for this, I will explain later.

Yesterday was turnaround time, to allow full access to the right hand side, Continuing the dismantling process, revealed similar corrosion and rot problems as encountered on the left side, but my son is a qualified fabricator and, will hopefully be able to do a template reconstruction of the quarter panels which are not as badly corroded as on the left side. But a new main side rail will be required.

When I realised that new parts would be required, I began to compile a list of suppliers, now well into page two. Also required was a list of parts required and, a list of companies or people who could refurbish for example, chrome finishings and fasteners, again now on page three.

Back to the interior trim replacements, it would appear, that although the current colour appears to be Autumn Red (a 1951 colour), underneath, I am seeing a red of a totally different shade, more in keeping with MG red, as is indicated on original colour charts. The interior was red but has been over sprayed with the ” Autumn Red ” shade.

That about covers progress so far. Although I have sourced replacement panels and the ash frame rails as needed.

Obviously any further information, particularly about the life of 14678 in the U.S.A. would be most welcome”.

Ed’s note: Steve can be contacted at: smansbridg(at) {please substitute @ for (at)} The pic below shows TD14678 on the transporter before being tied down for the homeward journey.

Getting TC7445 back on the road

Another new TTT 2 subscriber and member to contact me is Pat Howe. He has an interesting TC which is virtually a one-owner car. The TC was in the ownership of Pat’s father from the early 1950s (Pat is checking dates); it was taken off the road in 1969, but has survived well, as the pictures show.

The rear lights are Jaguar, mounted on handmade wooden plinths, it also has servo assisted brakes, the servo being mounted near the back axle.

There is lots of family history with this car. Pat’s parents moved house in it a few times and Pat was brought home from hospital in the car after he was born.

The car has been on an aeroplane, dating from the time when a company used to fly you and your car to Ireland.

Pat has an old standard 8 cine film of the car dating from the time that it was last on the road and intends to get some stills taken from the film.

Says Pat, “My intention is to get it back on the road with the minimum of changes to how my dad had it, but teach my kids to drive in it, although as I was last a passenger in it nearly 50 years ago, and have never driven one, that might change!”

Ed’s note: It’s good to see both these cars being ‘resurrected’. Steve has significantly more work to do on his TD – from what he’s said and from photos he’s sent me, it’s a total restoration job. Pat is going to keep his TC much the same as it looks in the photos and if the car is basically structurally sound, why not? Never having driven a TC he’s going to discover a whole new driving experience!



Totally T-Type 2

is produced totally on a voluntary basis and is available on the website on a totally FREE basis. Its primary purpose is to help T-Type owners through articles of a technical nature and point them in the direction of recommended service and spares suppliers. Articles are published in good faith but I cannot accept responsibility or legal liability and in respect of contents, liability is expressly disclaimed.

Panelling a TC ash frame – Part 3

In Part 1 of his article (see Issue 35) Bob Lyell started on the front quarter panels to (as he put it) “gain experience and confidence”. Part 2 (see Issue 36) saw him moving to the rear quarter panels. In Part 3 Bob makes a start on the doors and in particular the door edge flanges. Part 4 (to be featured in Issue 38) will deal with the door skins and fitting them.

Over to Bob……………

“Do not underestimate” springs to mind, because with hindsight I now realise that making, aligning and clinching together the 8 separate panels required for a pair of doors takes as long as for the rest of the tub. But with patience, care, a little specialist (TIG welding) help and a lot of G clamps it can be done.

Door fit, highly visible and very
satisfying when achieved.

However before cutting metal please consider that your satisfaction with the finished result, and I daresay the observations of others, will be all about how well they fit and that has to start with the bare Ash door frame. Indeed, I would argue that adding metal can at best only maintain its shape and fit but never improve it. So I hung each door, adjusted the hinges to remove any trace of play and was relieved to measure a 5-6mm clearance gap all around the aperture (before the tub was skinned); and when the inner faces of body and door were flush the door outer face was 4mm proud all around, just sufficient to accommodate the body skin and door flange, my doors being 36mm thick against a 32mm body. As will become apparent later a 4mm protrusion is vital particularly around the tight corner below the bottom hinge.

I started with the hinge reinforcement panel which also incorporates a return fold for the door flange between the hinges. I borrowed one, copied it in mild steel for strength in my hand folder having first worked out the only sequence in which to pull each fold. The flange edge, having folded straight, needed curving by hand to match the very slight curve of the ash door frame, without this correction the door trailing edge will foul the body as the door is opened because being behind the centre line of the hinge pins the gap initially reduces as the door is opened.

Hinge reinforcement panel with welded in corners for additional strength.

The 2 halves of the door edge meet
at a butt joint.

I decided to make the double flanged door edge, which runs from the bottom hinge all the way round to the front top sharp corner in 2 separate pieces with a butt joint towards the front of the bottom edge, that way each piece would only need to contain one tight corner. The very short length of door edge above the top hinge is not covered, its final finish being painted wood.

The bottom one started as a flat strip of Aluminium 25 x 3 ¾ inches (such is the front to rear curve of the door frame). I clamped it in place, tight along its entire length with a small overlap past the bottom hinge. Whilst still clamped I drilled and fitted 2 securing screws at the front, marked the inner edge of the door frame along its length and when removed added a second line 16mm outboard, reduced to 10mm around the tight corner, to which the panel was cut.

Then I made 2 formers from 25 x 4mm mild steel strip curved and with the edge filed to exactly follow the inner edge of the ash door frame, one former for both tight corners and the other for the less challenging gentle curves.

Although it felt unproductive at the time, spending so long in getting them accurate paid dividends and each strip would be used 4 times.

Steel formers curved in both directions.

…..and here shown in place.

Production of the first inboard flange edge started by annealing the Aluminium panel, locating it at the front with the 2 screws and clamping it tight against the wood with my new steel formers. A simple plastic setting tool enabled me to locate the edge of the steel exactly level with the edge of the Ash.

Using a plastic headed mallet I was able to start to work the edge over.

Once it started to work harden it was the now familiar process of remove, anneal, replace and work it further in 2 stages, the final one with a slapper to shrink the metal.

Plastic card setting tool.

With care and cutting back to 10mm it does shrink down flat.

With the inboard flange finished I was able to mark the outer face of the door frame onto the Aluminium, remove and cut 10mm outside of the line this time, including the tight corner. I filed the opposite side of the steel former to a sharp corner and adjusted it as necessary to now align with the outer edge of the door.

Having first annealed the panel I located it again with screws and clamps but this time using the simple setting tool to locate the steel edge 1.2mm inboard of the ash, using an off cut as a feeler gauge. This inset was designed to accommodate the panel thickness so when folded, the outer edge of the Aluminium would lie flush with the outer face of the wood.

Steel edge set back 1.2mm.

As before, it was a case of using a plastic headed mallet to work the edge over, followed by remove, anneal and replace in 2 more stages, the final one with a planishing hammer to stretch the metal.

Clamped tight and ready to start working the edge over.

How it starts to move in a tight even curve, very different to the loose folds formed by shrinking.

Then the whole process was repeated for the second (front) Aluminium strip.

Returning to door fit I was now able to check how well I had done before committing to nailing the flanges in place by assembling the edge strips onto the door with their mounting screws and small G clamps. Hanging the door then provided the first chance to close it to see the aperture gap and more importantly how the flange sat against the body, particularly in the bottom rear corner. Then I opened and closed it with a dummy strip of door skin held in place to observe how the rear edge gap initially reduced before it increased.

I was relieved that I had sufficient gap and that only a small amount of adjustment was required.

The whole process was then repeated for the other door, the steel formers were reversed by bending them the other way, much easier than trying to re-file the edges for which there was insufficient metal left anyway.

Then the door edge strips were removed and carefully put away, ready to be nailed in place after the door skins were shaped because that process requires a bare Ash door frame.

The Restoration of Frans Sitton’s TF2152

Twelve years ago we bought our present house here in Zeeland, in the south of The Netherlands, with a garage for 2 cars. A large garage was really a necessity because I was keen to restore a T-Type.

In my past life I had owned several MGs, including two TCs, a TD, a TA, an M-type, two MGAs and three MGBs, together with several other interesting cars.

In 2006 I started to search in newspapers, classic car magazines, the Internet etc. for a T-Type to restore and after three months I found, via the Internet a 1954 MG TF which was “sleeping” in a town called Middelburg, about 30 km from my place. It was a stranded restoration, situated in the cellar of an antique dealer, still with the original Californian black plates of 1966 on it.

We agreed a reasonable price, and later I went home with my treasure on a trailer, albeit it was in driveable condition.

From the Heritage Trust I found out that this car was built between 31st December 1953 and 5th January 1954 and despatched on 6 January to the USA. Specification LHD, North American Export. On 25th March 2005 it was imported to The Netherlands by a guy called Joop Stolze. He sells all sorts of cars, just opened last year a new warehouse, with almost 600 cars, all for sale! Just visit his website: and it is unbelievable, what you will see!

Mr Stolze is a very approachable and easy to get along with kind of chap to speak to. I visited him recently and we talked about my TF, showing him the US Customs paper with his name showing as the Importer. On the Certificate of Title was the name of the former owner Bruce Golino in Watsonville CA.

Just after I bought the TF, I wrote to Mr Golino but didn’t get a reply. Four years later, having finished the restoration, I wrote to him again and enclosed updated pictures of the car, but still didn’t get an answer.

After some years I Googled Mr Golino’s name, and found to my astonishment various articles, even with a picture of him on the Internet! He is a past president of the California Olive Oil Council.

It is a pity that he has not replied to me as I like to correspond with previous owners.

Well that’s the background to my purchase, now for the restoration details………

Stripping the car

After some weeks I took the MG completely apart. One day my wife came into the garage, and asked “Where on earth did you leave the car?” Well, I pointed to the chassis up against the wall, and in one corner the tub, and the rest in the attic of the garage – I certainly wanted to do a ‘nut and bolt’ restoration!

Early stages of dismantling

One of the first things I noticed was that there was a difference in height at the front of the car. This was due to a broken spring which would need to be replaced. Also, when measuring the front and rear axles I recorded a difference of 18mm left and right. It seems that the MG had suffered collision damage at the left rear side sometime in its past life. The rear left bow of the chassis was tighter than the right bow.

I brought the chassis to a company called Terberg in IJsselstein (see

They were very helpful and friendly and straightened the chassis perfectly (as they did some years later with the chassis of my TC – see TTT 2, Issue 22).

I thoroughly cleaned the engine block and removed the old core plugs – what a mess behind them! Also important to clean the little holes in the back of the cores. New core plugs were fitted.

Rebuilding the car

Lots of new parts for the cooling system; new thermostat, thermostat housing, fresh hose set, new water pump, instead of the 4 iron fan blades a much lighter and better cooling 6 blade MG B fan.

Reconditioned starter and dynamo fitted, as was a new fuel pump.

The cylinder head was converted for lead free petrol. Had the carburettors rebuilt by BCCP Fuel Systems, Also restored and adjusted the back axle, and mounted new rear springs. Complete new stainless exhaust.

I designed my own heatshield of mottled aluminium.

Back axle ready to be re-fitted.

Cleaned the chassis, bare to metal, then wash primered it, and waxoiled the inner side of the chassis. Lastly a coat of shiny black paint.

Wash primered chassis and rolling chassis.

Using Waxoyl to protect the box section.

Before and after ‘shots’ of the bulkhead.

The engine and gearbox ready for installation – note new core plugs!

Above: Ready for the painter. Below: At the paint shop.

The finished paint job – photo taken at the harbour of Ter neuzen.

The green mohair hood was ordered from MOSS.

The hood was ‘pinned’ loosely and allowed to rest for about a week following which it needed some more tension. It then fitted perfectly.

The almond green trim came from PJM Motors

Although the Heritage Certificate showed the TF as having wire wheels when it was exported to North America it came to The Netherlands with disc wheels. I decided to fit wire wheels as it left the Factory so bought a conversion kit.

The instruments were restored by a firm called Info Instruments who did a perfect job.

The original steering wheel was changed for a Brooklands wheel, which had previously been bought for me as a present by my wife.

The final task following the completion of the restoration was to go to the equivalent of the Dutch DVLA to register the car. There was a slight problem in that they noticed that the car did not have reflectors fitted. However, all I had to do was to fit them and send them a photograph as an e-mail attachment – quite sympathetic people!

Ed’s note: It’s rather different here with the DVLA. As DVLA representative for the MG Octagon Car Club I used to include my telephone number and e-mail address on applications I sent to the DVLA on behalf of members. I did so because I felt it was easier for everybody concerned to contact me as the “agent” of the applicant to help to resolve queries, rather than the applicant receiving back a bundle of papers with the message “I have to reject your application……” However, I gave up, defeated by bureaucracy – my good intentions were ignored! The latest example concerned an application which was rejected because the chassis number TF2680 did not tie up with the NOVA advice HDE 23 2680 – easily explained over the phone!

Back to the story………

Frans drove the car without problems for a good 3 years. It always started ‘on the button’ even in winter, albeit it never needed much choke, so was probably running on the rich side. However, he noticed after a run of 60km one day that the car started to run on 3 cylinders. This got progressively worse as it started to give problems after 50km and then 40km. He soon got tired of carrying a few spare sets of plugs around with him to change as soon as the car started to misfire, so decided to have the engine completely rebuilt.

He dismantled the engine and took it to Motorenrevisie Oudejans well known to MG Clubs in The Netherlands. They did a first class job and the TF is now running sweetly.

Since sending me the story of his restoration Frans married his girlfriend (they had lived together for 16 years) on 10th June. Those with a good memory will recall that Frans also restored a TC and this was featured in Issue 22 of TTT 2. He sent me some photos, two of which are reproduced below:

When I received the photos I was curious to know the reason why Frans, a Dutchman was wearing a kilt. Here’s what Frans told me:

“My name Sitton is related to the Scottish name of Seton. In the Dutch town of Tiel a Scottish soldier, Andryes Seton, born in 1585, married a Dutch girl, Jenneken Jansdr, born 1590 and became the first Seton in the Netherlands.

There is also a book written about 4 decades of Seton – Ceton – Saton – Sitton. To the west of Edinburgh there are several ‘Seton’ names, such as Port Seton, Seton Castle and the Seton Collegiate Church.

We observed several Scottish customs on our wedding day. These included jumping over a broomstick, blessing by the Quaich and the feet washing of my wife.

On her wedding gown my wife wore a sash with a Luckenbooth and walked the whole day with 6 pence in her shoe (another Scottish custom). The wedding flowers were thistles and other wild flowers from Scotland. A bagpiper walked in front of the TC before the ceremony.”

I’ll leave you with a photo of Frans looking pleased with himself following his rebuild:

Whilst on the subject of a TF rebuild there is a very sound offside front wing for sale which was in the ownership of the late Don Jackson. As it is an original wing there shouldn’t be a problem with fit. The asking price is £350, or near offer – carriage is extra. The advertised price of new after-market wings is over £1,250 each! Please call Mike Jones on 01254 823350 for further details.

Oil Circuit Improvement

(a tip from France by Laurent Castel)

The first check after starting the engine of my TD is the oil pressure gauge. I used to have a very anguished long few seconds before the pressure rises above zero.

During these long seconds I suffered as much as my engine.

This agonising is over with the modification described hereafter.

Modern spin on filters often include a check valve which prevents the circuit from draining when the engine stops. T-Typers who are using the conversion kit take benefit of this valve.

But how anachronistic is this modern filter in the engine compartment!

This article offers a solution which keeps the period appearance of the filter by fitting an additional check valve in the oil circuit. Furthermore, the check valve, upstream of the filter and the pump, prevents the filter and the pump from draining.

Modern engines are also sometimes equipped with one or several check valves at suitable locations in the engine to get immediate pressure on bearings.

For the XPAG, there is one location which is easy to access and efficient.

The pipe between the oil strainer and the sump is the right place to implement the check valve. It is upstream of the pump and upstream of the filter. Therefore, only a short length of the pipe is prone to immediate draining instead of the entire engine and filter. The sump is easily removed without getting the entire engine out of the car.

I bought a ball type check valve with a Teflon seat. According to the local dealer, the valve is oil proof and high temperature resistant. No problem is foreseen for the oil pressure circuit. Actually, mine is installed since November 2014 with no issue. More than 1000 miles.

One very important criterion when choosing the valve is the very low tension of the spring. Some low price items are very strong and would need a too high suction to open. Choose a model with a spring so light that you cannot even feel it when pushing the ball. Good quality valves always feature that low pressure forward threshold.

I cut twice the horizontal part of the pipe and removed the corresponding length to insert the check valve. Then I had the threaded end pieces welded on both parts of the pipe. The valve had to be lightly ground at both ends to get enough clearance with the sump wall. Threaded parts are smeared with a sealing compound and the valve is then tightened until the original length is reached. I guess, usual plumbing Teflon strip might also be used. Double check the forward direction of the check valve indicated by an arrow on it. The arrow shall indicate the sump flange. Take the opportunity to clean the strainer. Install the whole assembly back in the sump with a new gasket between the flange and the sump wall. Sealing compound on the engine side of the gasket is an additional precaution.

The results are amazing!

When leaving the car parked for more than a night, the time to get pressure used to be about 10 seconds. With the check valve installed, this time is now reduced to 2 seconds, even when parked for one month. When parking for a few hours, I often get the pressure at first starter revolutions, before first explosion.

The XPAG will never dry and thanks you for it!

Ed’s note: Laurent’s car (TD29133) was originally registered in Birmingham. He has been keen to find out the history of his TD and his patience was rewarded when he was contacted by a previous custodian who owned the car from 1969 through to 1984. Laurent now has dates for engine and body rebuilds, together with mileages (it’s been established that the car has done 113,000 miles). The previous custodian also has lots of photos, the log book, instruction manual and still has some spare parts! A good result and it’s heartening to know that there are previous owners out there who take the trouble to help.

The Fall of Fort Dunlop

Fort Dunlop is the common name of the original tire factory for Dunlop Rubber located in Birmingham, England. The Dunlop Rubber Co. Ltd was set up in Birmingham in 1901 to manufacture Dunlop tires, initially for bicycles and later for motor vehicles. The First World War initiated a huge expansion in the demand for solid tires for lorries (trucks). Thus, the Fort Dunlop factory was built in 1916. Post-war, the motor industry grew and Dunlop was well placed to supply the demand for tires.

Founder, John Boyd Dunlop (1840 – 1921)

In the 1970s it was still the largest tire factory outside the United States. However, the increased number of foreign cars imported into Britain led to a decline in demand and the company was sold in the 1980s. Thus, large-scale tire production ceased at Fort Dunlop. However, Dunlop Tires continued to produce specialized vintage, motorcycle and motorsport tires on the site.

The original tires for the MG TC were made by Dunlop and were known as the B5. The B5 (4.5×19”) is easy to recognize by its classic tread pattern and of course the tradename “Dunlop”. It had been in continuous production despite the cutbacks at Ft Dunlop up until 2014. This is when the Birmingham factory (Ft. Dunlop) was closed and Dunlop production moved to Germany and France.

There were rumors (speculation and hope) that the B5 would once again be manufactured in Europe. However, this has not come to fruition and the B5 tire is no more. The mold was sold and a new “like” tire is now being manufactured by the name of “Ensign”. It carries the same tread pattern but, for trademark reasons, the name Dunlop does not appear on the sidewall. So cherish your Dunlop’s as it now appears they too will be collector items. As for Ft. Dunlop, it is a commercial office complex.

Doug Pelton, doug’at’

Ed’s note:

There are tires and tyres, but since this is Doug’s article I have not altered the spelling of ‘tire’ to ‘tyre’.

Moving on to wheels (onto which the tyres fit) – yes, I can use the spelling ‘tyres’ now! David Hughes drew my attention to a supplier which has given him good service. The company is Turrino Wheels They are based at Wansford, about 10 miles to the west of Peterborough. The telephone number is 01780 471011 – ask for Will. David sent me a copy of his invoice for two 19” silver centre laced wheels at £420 including VAT. According to the company’s website they will also restore/rebuild or refurbish your wheels and first check them over on their jigs. Having checked them they will then discuss options with you and let you have a quotation.

Another supplier is Motor Wheel Service (MWS) who are based in Langley, near Slough. The company’s website is

Phil Hallewell in Ickenham, Uxbridge, Middlesex has done work for me in the past, but last time I checked he was unable to supply new 19” wheels.

James Wheildon in Salisbury – Old Brickwood Farm, West Grimstead, SALISBURY, Wilts. SP5 3RN Tel: 01722 712967 has featured in these columns in the past. He’s in the process of retiring and his business has now been taken over by Nick, working from the same workshop. Nick will carefully assess your wheels and come up with a quote but he will recommend you buy new if he can’t match the price of a new wheel/wheels.

TC10178 – saved from sitting on bricks since 1967 in a Sheffield lock up garage (Part 7)

Ed’s introductory note: I hope that Norman will forgive me but I’ve had to edit his contribution quite severely due to space constraints.

Got the engine balanced on the two axle stands that the car was on so the sump was pointing upwards then took the clutch and flywheel bolts off. Then all the sump bolts and replaced the front and rear crankshaft seals. I think the rear oil leak was from the half round cork seal but not sure why the front was leaking. Reassembled with plenty of black silicone gasket maker. Got the sump on with all bolts started and the four corners tightened then realised I hadn’t put the flywheel on. Off with sump, on with the flywheel and sump refitted.

New rear seal fitted

Got to the bodyshop at 0800. Unloaded the tools from the car and laid them out on the bench. I put two pieces of lino between the front stands and chassis to get the chassis level. I had few problems. I had to cut the top hose shorter and the hose from the pump to the metal tube as well as the bottom of the metal tube. After all that, it fitted. Then I brought the bulkhead out of the store it’s in but couldn’t see the bonnet panels, so I asked where they were. Ah, says the panel beater and he gets a key from the office, goes outside and in a lock-up next to the garage are the bonnet panels which have been primed. Last problem is that I asked if they could paint the bulkhead by Friday so I could run the loom and fit all the bits to the bulkhead. No chance as they are on holiday next week. So I’ll have to have a week off.

I’ll let the pictures do the talking…..

I picked out the chassis number in yellow and sprayed with a clear lacquer. It was better than the pic shows, but the lacquer melted the yellow paint!

Looking good…………….

Looking better………….

AT LAST, it’s beginning to look like a car.

I’m going back on Friday to fit the bonnet centre fixings as I left them in my workshop. I think it will all line up when the bonnet is fixed. Then I have to take it all apart for the bulkhead and bonnet to be painted. But the body is now bolted down and all is in line. I’ve drilled 20 holes in the front face of the body for the bulkhead to be bolted.

Called in at the bodyshop on the way home. Jean-Luc has said they will paint the bulkhead week after next. Once that is finished I have a week’s work and it will be running with floorboards and seat. I won’t finish the interior until the rest of the panels are painted and on.

Glued the rubber strip for the rear edge of the bonnet to the frame and had a good look at the bonnet alignment. It will be OK when I refit it all and adjust the position. I then drilled the holes in the bearer at the rear of the tub and bolted the rear of the tub to the chassis. Bonnet off and wrapped in bubble wrap then removed the bulkhead. I treated the rear of the tub where I took the strip that goes over the back of the hood, with undercoat. I then decided to wait until 1700 so I could get a second coat on. Whilst I waited I greased the track rod ends and drag link…. no I didn’t, because one of them has no grease nipple, must find out why. Then touched in. with black paint, the fan blades where I’d painted the tips yellow. I also painted the new chassis bolts.

When I popped into my friend’s on Wednesday to collect my wood blocks I noticed the cup washers on his front engine mountings where upside down so told him. I thought I’d check mine as I didn’t remember if they went on correctly. Just as well I did as they weren’t fitted! I found them in a box, de-rusted them and fitted them. I painted the underside before fitting and top side after. I was lucky as I could jack the engine just about high enough to get the N/S bolt high enough to get the washer in without having to remove the dynamo. Lastly I fitted the clutch and brake switch springs. Final coat of undercoat to the strip on the tub and home.

Jean-Maurice, the panel beater and painter had started painting the bulkhead in the spray booth. I think he will get the undercoat on tonight and top coats Monday week (they’re closed next week). He says I can refit it on the Tuesday.

Glass now fitted to the windscreen frame.

Plans…. never work, do they! Plan was to start at 0800 and build the windscreen. I need Lynne’s help to fit the glass to the frame but have a new stud to fit on one side. The old, broken, stud will not come out so I have to drill it. It is the stud that the windscreen butterfly nut goes to. End up drilling it totally so have to tap it with a 3/8 UNF thread and make a stud which steps down to the 1/4″ BSF thread. This takes time so don’t start building the screen until 1100. We gave up at 1315! The problem is the wiper wire, I’m not sure which way it goes in and none of the books show it. I think I have the correct route now but Lynne says it’ll have to wait until tomorrow.

I ended up putting 5 coats of varnish on the floorboards. As the lid was damaged I decide to use it all rather than throw it away so put another coat on every two hours. Final coat went on at 0030.

I noticed Doug Pelton has a battery strap to secure the battery as the modern battery has no ‘ears’, so I rang Doug from ‘From the Frame Up’. He answered the phone and we had a chat. He knew me from the TABC email group and is sending me a battery strap in the post. He’s a genuinely nice chap.

Now, let me say something. I started getting parts from another trader (I’ve deleted the name of this traderEd) but he let me down with an order and it took me 3 weeks to get him by phone/email. I then went to Moss and explained I’d been getting parts from their agent but as he’d let me down could I get stuff from them with their 10% discount. Yes, of course. Not a penny discount on the next two orders. I then rang NTG. What a difference! Nothing is too much trouble for them, they are very nice and helpful. Also they applied a discount even though I didn’t ask. Moral of the story – if you need T or Y type parts just ring Linda at NTG. Great buying experience from them.

Arrived at the bodyshop at 0800. The bulkhead was painted but he hadn’t painted the foot board yet. I glued the rubber strips for the bulkhead in position, put some screws in the bonnet rubber did a few other bits and pieces. About 1100 Jean-Maurice and I lifted the bulkhead on and I then set about bolting it up. I got all the top and side bolts in except for the bottom three each side. These six bolts were very difficult to get in as the side of the bulkhead needed pressing in to align the holes. Took a while but I got there in the end. Then for the six bolts, three each side, that go to the uprights. These were even more difficult to line up and get in. After an hour or so I had all six in. I then tightened all the bolts to the body and then realised that I’d have to take the six that went into the uprights out again as they go through the toe board, which isn’t fitted yet. Never mind, it will be easier second time around. I always say that and it never is! Then we lifted the bonnet on. I put three pieces of lino tiles under the 4 front body bolts to raise the body in order to align the bonnet. I also had to pack out one side of the radiator mounting as the rad was leaning over. All in all, this took about two hours but it’s all looking good. The worst job today? Feeding the battery cable through the battery box whilst trying to keep the grommet in position and stop the cotton braiding being held above the grommet. Did it the end with a piece of rubber tubing acting as a sleeve. Got the same to do tomorrow as it also goes through the foot board. Oh what fun!

Shiny black bulkhead in place. All main bolts are in but no nuts on yet.

I know we had it like this two weeks ago but this time everything is aligned and the bulkhead is a permanent fixture now.

What a horrible day! What a disaster! Ever feel like you’ve worked hard all day and have nothing for it? Did I say the six bulkhead to upright bolts would be easier second time around? Well, I lied, they were worse, much worse. So, what went wrong? Well to start the tale, the foot board was under a 1920s Citroen lorry which has no tyres on. This monster had been backed in to the lock-up and the steel rims went over my foot board! I knew Moss, Bradford had one so I asked them to send it UPS express. It arrived yesterday and he painted it in the afternoon.

So, this morning I get there at 0805. Started by fitting the right angle adaptor to the fuel pump and clipped the pipes. I also did a few other bits and pieces. Time to fit the toe board….. it won’t! Fit that is. I’ve either got to undo the eighteen bulkhead bolts to lift the bulkhead about two inches or it may go in if I take the pedals off. Easier to move the pedals. Clutch pedal comes off easily but the brake pedal is difficult. I have to remove the pushrod and that’s almost impossible with the pedal solid having bleed the brakes. But I do get it off and angle the pedal to the rear. The toe board goes in, just. I have to feed the battery cable through it so it will go all the way in but there’s no hole for the cable. I look at Sherrill’s books and the speedo and tacho cables aren’t there nor are the holes for the brass adaptor on the oil pipe or the hole for the pipe itself. I ring Carl at Moss and he’s surprised but thinks they may have been modified as the racing lads don’t want the holes. So, having struggled to get it in, it comes out. I compare my board with the diagram in TCs Forever! and can now see that the large holes for the grommets are “marked” with small pilot holes. Take the panel to their machine shop and drill a hole for the battery cable, two 30 mm holes for the cables and smaller holes for the oil pipe and bolt holding the brass adaptor. All holed out I refit the board. I have to remove those six bolts that hold the bulkhead to the uprights. Having got the battery cable through the toe board I get it flat on the inside of the bulkhead. Then to refit the six bolts. Jean-Maurice helped me get the top bolt in the right hand side and I refitted the other two on my own. Then I refitted the pedals, that took an hour!

Finally in! I’ll polish it next week…. probably not, it won’t be seen with the carpet over it.

I had three setscrews to get through two panels and into the captive nuts then the four setscrews along the top. I struggled. At one point I was levering the panels together and pulled so hard the car came of its axle stand. I had the upright supported on a jack trying to get all three holes in line. Farce followed as I tried to lower the jack so I could get it under the chassis and the car back on four stands. The French jacks they have are not easy to lower as they have safety devices so, with the rocking on three axle stands, I’m trying to lower the bloody jack and not having much success When it did go down I jacked it on the axle and placed the two front stands under the springs. I didn’t bother trying to raise the uprights again. It took me over two hours to get them all in and tighten the left hand upright. The last one was a nightmare until I noticed the captive nut at a weird angle. I took it off, ran a tap through it and the last screw went in easily. Only spent half hour on one screw. Lucky I’m not on bonus! By this time, I was so knackered I could hardly stand. So I came home, it was 1730. A full day’s work and only one panel held on with 10 setscrews fitted. 

The two cable grommets, the oil gauge brass adaptor fixed to the bulkhead and I know the rad supports need the nuts fitting.

Now, we all know Rodney’s a ‘plonker’, but did you know that Norman is one too. (For our French and rest of the world readers, I refer to a BBC Comedy show). So repeat after me “Norman, you plonker”… we’ll come back to it.

I started by fitting the clip to the fuel pipe. Removed the rad case, elongated the holes in the frame and refitted the case an inch or so lower so I can now get the rad cap on. I then fitted the brake pedal springs. I’m not happy about the brake pedal, after fitting the return spring, which seemed to be locating too far back, it’s in front of the clutch pedal. When pressed it goes back to the correct place before operating the cylinder. I’ll look at it later.

The brake pedal springs.

So, I start fitting the loom, commencing by connecting the wires to the regulator. Looking at the lovely fan of wires on the “From The Frame Up” tech tip, I decide I’ll do the same. So I fan out the wires and cut back to the correct length to look as good as the pictures. Only problem, remember, I’m a ‘plonker’! I have the regulator back to front so the shortest wire has the furthest to travel. (Why am I telling the world this…. ah, because I’m a ‘plonker’, remember?).

OK, no real problem, I have some connectors so will join the three wires that are too short back on…. ah, yes ‘plonkeritis’ at work again, I left the crimping tool at home … ‘plonker’! Borrow a crimping tool from the mechanic who comes in on Monday (everyone else has Monday off, the French only work 38 hours a week). Wires crimped and run, looks OK and no one will see the joins under the dash, except the ‘plonker’ has told everyone.

Lunch and start on pulling the loom through the bulkhead. Take it slowly and do more damage to my ribs by laying across the sills. By 1600 it’s through and I fit the brown wire to the starter motor and strip the two green wires that go to the brake light switch. It’s now getting on for 1700 and getting dark. It’s too dark for me to see well so I call it a day and go home.

The first wire of the loom to be fitted, the brown main feed. Just visible are the two green wires hanging down by the brake switch.

The main loom which is the larger of the two armoured cables. The other is the tacho cable.

Under the dash. I’ve got to strip all those dash wires tomorrow, but I’ve put the wire strippers in the car so the ‘plonker’ doesn’t forget.

For those who have no idea what a ‘plonker’ is, this is the entry in the Urban Dictionary…..

dope, idiot, moron, wally, pillock, dunderhead, dimwit.
You are such a plonker, Rodney.”

So, what did the ‘plonker’ do today…. not a lot it seems. First job was to fit the two wires to the brake light switch. Time taken 2 hours! Why? Well the two grub screws were very tight so I decided to take the switch off and free up the screws. Problem was the screws that hold the switch to the bracket were rusted and covered in POR 15 paint. One came off, the other had to be cut off. I freed off the screws and refitted the switch with new screws and nuts. Then the edge of one of the grub screws broke away. I cut a deeper slot with a junior hacksaw and fitted it all back. I also adjusted the brake pedal and can see why the pedal is returning too far. I’ve put the Thackeray washer at the wrong end of the shaft so the pedal is not coming to stop on the stop lug. It’s a bit of a job getting the shaft out of the pedal cage with the body on so I’ll extend the stop quarter inch.

Next was to fit the coil and petrol pump wires, no problems – then the dynamo wires. Problem here was the larger of the two nuts was missing and I spent about half hour trying to find a nut that fitted. When I did, it took a couple of minutes to fit the two wires…. after I had wrapped the loom in tape and pulled it through the chassis. After lunch I bared all… well stripped all the wires going to the dash, then I started on the dash. The dash has been sitting on my table at home for months waiting for me to finalise the wiring. Never got around to it. So I fitted all the earth wires and a few others but had a problem. I couldn’t work out why the dash bulbs wiring wouldn’t reach all three bulbs on the tacho side. I tried it every way I could think but one end was always short of the bulb holder. I then looked at the pictures I took when I first took the dash out. The centre bulb holder, the one for the oil pressure gauge is on the opposite side to the original. This is the new centre panel I bought from Barry Walker. No problem, I extended the wiring. At this point Jean-Maurice starts fitting all the side panels and points out a ‘plonkerism’…. more later.

Jean-Maurice fitting the nearside side panel.

Next problem is the wire that goes to the speedo for the 30 MPH light is terminating by the Fuel lamp. I’m not sure what’s happened here, I’ll check that the warning lamps are in the correct place. I’ve also got a problem with the new 30 MPH lamp and map lamp, they are not earthed and have the wrong colour wiring. I’ll sort it out, probably drill very small holes in the casings and earth the body that way. Last thing I did was to connect the battery to the dash lights. Some work some don’t. The bulb on one that doesn’t work seems OK. I’ll order new bulbs for the whole dash, it’s easy to fit them whilst the dash is out.

 OK, today’s ‘plonkerism’, well actually it was last week. When I packed the body up to get a good fit on the front of the bonnet to the rad casing edge I only packed the front four bolts. I read somewhere it was OK to have the body slope slightly so I didn’t pack the two rear mountings. Jean-Maurice pointed out the body is split by the door hinge on the passenger’s side. I filled the gap with glue, undid the two rear bolts, jacked the body and slid the three pieces of lino tiles between body and chassis. The gap closed. I then tightened the body fixing bolts. I drilled a small hole through the hinge pillar and fitted a wood screw in to hold the split together. It’s OK.

After physio I clock in at 1100. Sort out the wiring loom which has one end the wrong way around. It now has the MPH wire next to the MPH lamp. I then put some ends on a few wires and test everything. The dash lights work as does the map and mph lamp. Don’t know yet if they work correctly but they do light up. After lunch I fit the throttle pedal, with help from Robin, the apprentice and feed the 3 control cables through. I make another connector for the dash wiring and then place the dash on two clamps which I’ve clamped to the frame. Only problem is the loom isn’t long enough to reach the connectors on the dash. So I put the dash in place and attempt to join the loom wires to the dash switches. No Chance! (Achieved later, as was the dash wiring, with lots of help from Lynne, Norman’s wife)

The dash in place ready to have the loom connected.

All we’ve got to do in the morning is connect the loom to the dash. With Lynne helping, she may be able to pull the loom out so I can connect the wires to the dash with the dash laying on two G Clamps on the frame. It will be much easier than grovelling under the dash. Of course, in my youth I would have laid on my back and had the job done in a few minutes…… but those days are long gone.

We set off at 0830 and arrived at 0900. We started by trying to get four red wires into the slot of the lighting switch. No chance! in the end we soldered all four to one heavy wire (OK, it’s black but is only a few inches long) and then covered the join in a shrink sleeve. We then realised that the wiring diagrams we had were not correct. I had three and all differed slightly. I have a new dipswitch/horn from Moss. It comes with a wiring diagram as it says it’s different. I can understand the loom colours being different but how do you explain that their diagram with their coloured wires do not correspond to the diagram. I eventually decided to follow the one that matched the colours I had, I had to leave the wires to the dip switch as there are two wires that have two wires going into one.

We tried soldering them but the iron wouldn’t get hot enough. I’m taking some Lucar spade connectors with piggyback spades so I can get three wires on the male/female connector. I tried not to use these as they weren’t used originally. In hindsight, if I was doing this again, I would cut all the wires to the dash, fit the wires to the dash on the bench and then use bullet connectors to re-join the loom.

Lynne went at about 1600. I carried on and fixed the inspection lamp black socket which the black plastic ring had broken. I made a new one from a bottle top, better than £54 for new ones!

My helper, isn’t she wonderful?
– well, I think so.

I then got help to install the battery. At first nothing worked. So I removed the earth lead from the side of the battery box, removed the paint to bare metal and refitted the lead. It worked! But there is a short somewhere as the battery terminal gives a hefty spark when touched against the battery post. Also, if I leave it on there appears to be smoke coming from the carbs! It may be from the starter below but it really does look like it’s from the braided petrol pipe between the carbs. The starter works but nothing else seems to, no ignition light, no map light, no…. well nothing! I’ll sort it out on Monday morning, we’re out tomorrow.

I’m so cold my fingers are frozen and my brain, what I have of it, won’t work. I get the short fixed and get ignition. I then go to sort out why I have no lights. Get lamps working. I test each circuit with a multi meter.

LOOK! Lights.

Can you see them all glowing?

I had a problem with the bezels on the tacho and speedo. They weren’t crimped over enough and were coming loose when the instruments were tightened. I removed them, tighten the tabs and refitted. Problem is now, the bulbs are not shining through the gap of the tacho. It’s on the list.

And finally….

There has been some discussion within the TABC group about how best to refurb wheels. This is my effort with sandblasting, primer and rattle can paint from Moss.

To be continued in the next Issue……(Ed)

Sat/Navs and MG TD

I recently decided to try my Tom Tom Sat/Nav in my TD and of course straight away realised that the earth on the Sat/Nav is Negative and our TD/TFs are Positive earthed.

As TDs have a very convenient power take off, built into the dashboard, it seemed an easy proposition to utilize it.

The red (positive) and black (negative) dashboard sockets.

Assuming that the car has not had the polarity switched already, it’s a simple mod to make up a lead to switch the polarity from Positive to Negative for the purpose of using the Sat/Nav.

Check that the sockets on the dashboard are correctly wired i.e. Red is positive and Black is Negative, mine were incorrectly wired.

Purchase a Cigarette Lighter socket from Maplin and make up 2 leads of the appropriate length, I suggest one Red and the other Black and cover with black shrink sleeve.

Gauge of cable I chose was 8.75 amp 14/0.30.

Solder the Black lead to the central terminal on the Lighter socket.

Solder the Red lead to the terminal on the outer edge of the lighter socket.

Get hold of the correct brass Map Reader plug that was designed for our Dashboard sockets

Mark one of the terminals on the dashboard plug with Red paint and wire the Red lead to it.

The Black lead fits to the other brass terminal and is Negative.

I also made up a label to fit around the lead to remind me to make sure that Red is always fitted to Red socket on the dashboard in order to maintain the correct earth.

It may be possible to use other electronic devices in this manner however I have not tried any others, the output from our dynamos may be a restriction for electronics that draw more power.

Assuming that all the fittings are plastic then there should be no problems with shorting, however if its decide to make a secondary dash panel out of steel and mount the cigarette lighter socket, make sure that the appropriate fuses and insulation is used.

Readers may already have carried out this sort of modification and this may be old news.

For anyone thinking about this I hope that this short description is useful.

I am not an Auto Electrician and so must make the usual disclaimers, it’s up to the reader to carry out his/her own research and decide whether the equipment that is being modified is suitable.

Russell Dade

Ed’s note: Jonathan Goddard’s book Practical MG TD – Maintenance, Update & Innovation has a couple of pages on fitting a ‘12V Cigarette Lighter Power Socket’ and a couple more on ‘Satellite Navigation fitting’ (two alternatives).

Jonathan’s book, which has sold copies worldwide is available from the T-Shop for 6.99 GBP plus postage, or direct from the Editor at 85 Bath Road, Keynsham, BRISTOL BS31 1SR Tel: 0117 986 4224 e-mail jj(at)

Bits and Pieces


We were recently contacted by a TTT 2 subscriber who felt that he was not being treated fairly by his insurer. He had recently renewed his cover for an off road policy at a premium of £246, which was set to increase to £368 when he advised the insurer that he wanted to up the value of his TF to £40,000.

As his car was virtually ready for the road, we advised him to contact Hagerty International Insurance who gave him a quote of £157 for his requested £40,000 valuation and a mileage limit of 1,000 – he ‘signed up on the dot’. Furthermore we pointed out to him that the 14 day ‘cooling off period’ takes effect from the date the policy is renewed (not, as he thought, from the date he had paid – which was earlier). The upshot was that he received a refund of most of the premium he had paid.

Looking after your leaf springs

I recently purchased new rear leaf springs for my PB and decided that before fitting them I would give them the treatment recommended by Eric Worpe. Eric has, in the past, supplied me with a ready to use paste of graphite powder and silicone grease, but I thought it was time I started to do things for myself.

The graphite powder and silicone grease used to make up the horrible gooey paste shown in the picture were obtained from the Internet. The silicone grease was £4.50 for a 70 gm tube with free delivery and the graphite powder cost around £8 plus delivery for 500 gm. I’ve probably got enough graphite powder to mix up and ‘treat’ several pairs of leaf springs!

Although it’s not the most pleasant of jobs to do, I feel it is well worth the effort, because the graphite lubricates the springs, whilst the silicon grease prevents water washing away the graphite mixture.

Eric also told me about a product called Fertan.

I bought a 500 ml bottle from the Internet for around £25 including delivery. Not cheap, but it has a virtually unlimited shelf life. I used it (you brush it on) to protect the leafs of the new leaf springs. It destroys any rust and leaves a nice black finish – almost as though you had painted the surfaces black. You can then apply the mixture of graphite powder and silicone grease to each spring leaf.

101 uses for a TC

Collecting sheep nuts from the local agricultural merchants.

Cars for sale/wanted & Parts for sale/wanted

A reminder that our website has a lively ‘For Sale’ and ‘Wanted’ section with new adverts, particularly parts adverts, appearing on an almost daily basis. Also useful for scouring eBay auctions for MG cars & parts is the website mgauctionwatch


TTACT TAGS (Tag Today, Avoid Cursing Tomorrow) is a new product which has recently come onto the market. The tags allow you to label the wiring loom, cables and brake pipes of your vehicle on disassembly so that it connects back together at the end of the rebuild quickly and without expensive errors. For further information, please go to

Necessity is the mother of invention

The following is from Tim Parrott who is part way through a rebuild of his TA.

“I have spent 3 evenings trying to remove the oil pump that was well jammed.

On the third night, I sat and looked at the problem again and Ian Linton’s advice that the tube was sticking came to the fore. I had achieved a 5mm gap with a hammer, flat metal plates and a chisel. I then used some 6mm bolts with very flat nuts and washers to lift the pump. Once I have done this and run out of length, I put a bigger 8mm set in. I removed the pump with spanners rather than a hammer.

This is a picture of the second set. The washers on the left are to protect the block face and are too small to let the 8mm bolt pass through.”

And finally ………….I’m sorry that this issue is at least a week late, I’ll try to catch up so that the next issue comes out on time – Ed.